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What are my LEVELS supposed to be? List of Levels [Archive] - Saltwater Aquariums - Reef Tanks Online Discussion

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Sandworm
04-07-2004, 05:52 PM
Here are some of the most frequently asked questions about what levels are supposed to be in your reef. Some of these are adjustable depending on preference, so please, do not reply saying its better if you do it this way or that.. Levels listed are generally what is found in the ocean. We've also listed items that should not be present, but felt they should be listed.

Ammonia (NI-13/NH4~) Optimum level: zero at all times

Ammonia is the primary enemy of invertebrates and fish, capable of causing death in very low concentrations. Causes of ammonia included: an immature filter, over-feeding, overstocking and dead or dying stock. Vigilance and regular testing can avoid the presence of ammonia.

Nitrite (NO2) Optimum level: zero at all times Even trace levels of nitrite can destroy a well-presented invertebrate aquarium and cause fish much distress. All comment regarding ammonia apply equally as well here

Nitrate (NO3) Optimum levels: below 10 parts per million (ppm) total NO3 preferably zero

Some fish may tolerate well in excess of 25ppm. A reasonably harmless substance where many fish are concerned but a good overall indicator of general water quality and one that should be kept extremely low if invertebrates are to thrive. Constantly high nitrate levels usually reflect high fish stocking ratios. This must be monitored and the aquaria de- stocked if necessary stocked if necessary

Phosphates (P04) Optimum level: zero

Invertebrates do not prosper when levels of phosphate get too high. Phosphates arrive in the aquarium through unfiltered main water (used in the mixing of fresh or saltwater changes), poor quality carbon and marine salts, but mostly through the waste products of fish. Nuisance algae thrive where phosphate levels are high and destocking, high-quality water changes in the correct proportion or phosphate-removing resins can all help alleviate the problem.

Temperature 72-80 Optimum level: 25°C (77°F)

A stable temperature is essential to the well being of invertebrates and fish. Weather and lighting may force the temperature up and a cooler may have to be installed if valuable livestock is not to he lost. Always use an accurate thermometer

Magnesium: 1300 mg/l(ppm) 1280-1300ppm optimal

Iodine: Natural seawater has about .06 part per million (ppm) of iodine, including all from such as iodide, iodate, and organically bound iodine.

*Most marine aquarists maintain their aquariums with an iodine level of .06 ppm.

Strontium: Strontium is a minor element occurring in sea water at a concentration on about 8 to 10 mg/L. It is chemically very similar to calcium, and many organisms incorporate it in their skeletons along with calcium.

*Most marine aquarists maintain their aquariums with a strontium level of 8 - 10 mg/L.

PH Optimum level: 8.1-8.3

PH is a measure of the alkalinity or acidity of aquarium water. Invertebrates are sensitive to wide variations, although some natural changes are to be expected during the day. Dissolved oxygen assists in the increase of pH and as this builds tip due to activity of photosynthesis by micro and macro algae; test meters or kits will detect it. Aquarium water could drop to as low as 7.9 at the end of the night, and peak at around 8.4 just before lights out. These natural pH cycles are gradual and tend not to stress livestock to any great degree. Owing to their ingredients, pH buffers can also increase KU values to dangerously high levels. Regular water changes are essential.

(K)arbonate (H)ardness: Natural Sea water (NSW) is 7dKH For your Reef Its Suggested a range of 8-14dKH (11 being optimal)

KH is a measurement of various carbonates and bicarbonates of calcium and magnesium, and borates within fresh and sea water. A stable KH will prevent rapid declines in alkalinity and subsequent drops in pH.

Salinity Optimum level: between 1.023-1.025 (S.G.)

Salinity measures the total amount of dissolved solids in seawater. It is usually recorded as specific gravity (S.G.) but can Also be referred to as part per thousand (ppt) or 0/00 (eg 35 0/00 is 1.026). Constant evaporation of freshwater from the aquarium causes the salts to become more concentrated and the salinity to rise. To maintain stability, automatic dosing systems called osmo-regulators or osmolators are often used. These systems use conductivity meters to a very accurate level. They take their readings in micro Siemens (PS) and may be set to replenish freshwater as it evaporates

Calcium Optimum level: 350-400 ppm

Calcium is a vital element in any marine aquarium. A host of invertebrates draw it from the surrounding water in copious amounts and calcium reserves need to be replenished on a regular basis. Regular water changes may achieve this hut a well-stocked invertebrate tank may require the addition of biologically available calcium to keep levels optimum.

Dissolved Oxygen (02) Optimum level: 6-7 ppm

Both fish and invertebrates benefit greatly from high levels of dissolved oxygen. Good water circulation is the key, as oxygen is drawn mainly from the interface between air and water. Dissolved oxygen also affects ph.

Copper: Optimum levels: zero in the invertebrate aquarium; variable in the fish-only tank

Copper-based medications have proved very reliable in the treatment of various fish diseases such as white spot and Qodinium. It is, however, highly toxic to invertebrates and should never he used in aquaria housing these animals. Accurate measurement of copper is essential, as it can even prove lethal to fish at certain levels. Copper can even be introduced to the marine aquarium by way of the domestic water supply and this should he tested from time to time.

Redox Potential (ORP) Optimum level: approx 350 millivolts

Oxygen Reduction Potential is, broadly speaking, a measurement of the water's ability to cleanse itself. Highly efficient filtration and the use of ozone will help to boost values. ORP can only be measured using an electronic meter with a high quaity probe. As with many advanced" tests, ORP is not absolutely essential and the readings may be difficult to interpret without a full understanding of the multiple parameters.

phillipm
10-20-2004, 11:30 PM
:lol: I must be doing something right because all my levels are as you have written except my calcium which I keep at a constant 450-460 & Ph at 8.2-8.3 I like to leave my nitrates at about 10-15 I think it helps the critters.

collectforkids
11-04-2004, 09:00 AM
I've seen many posts make reference to the effect of light and temperature on various parameter levels and parameter X's effect on parameter Y.

It think it would be very useful to add a compilation of this information to this sticky.

Just a thought.

phillipm
11-04-2004, 07:18 PM
:) I read somewhere that Iodine & Strontium test kits were not that accurate so many people didnt bother to check their levels. In most cases the reefer would count on water changes to keep his levels up & those that dosed ran the risk of over dosing.

iamwhatiam52
08-31-2005, 04:12 AM
Being new at this I need a bit more information on parameters where the ideal level is "ZERO" like for Phosphate and Copper. Are limits at the lower ranges of test kits a problem in a reef tank?

My phosphate os 0.1

Copper is barely detectable (less than .05 mg/L) but not zero

What is tolerable, when should I take corrective action, and when should I panic?

Fiji Live Rock
08-31-2005, 04:32 AM
You will never completely eliminate copper as your water in your home flows through copper pipes.

Also, copper absorbs into the rock and substrate making itself a permanent home.

As for your PO4, it depends on the test kit's accuracy. Kits like Red Sea are at the lower end of accuracy where as kits like LeMotte are basicly top of the line for general testing. The lower the better. If you have detectible levels of PO4 then try using Phosban. It is a phosphate absorber. You don't want PO4 in your tank as it causes nucence algae problems.

Hope that helps you some.

PS:
Normal temp is now around 80*F for most industry professionals. (The range of 77*F to 80*F is a good area to be. +/- 1*F temp swing daily for lights on/off cycle.)

Also, if anyone is keeping clams and other Ca loving critters...your Ca levels will need to be at least 450ppm. It would be better to have it around 500ppm. (480 is a good round number.)

flyboydave
09-17-2005, 04:42 PM
You will never completely eliminate copper as your water in your home flows through copper pipes.

Also, copper absorbs into the rock and substrate making itself a permanent home.

As for your PO4, it depends on the test kit's accuracy. Kits like Red Sea are at the lower end of accuracy where as kits like LeMotte are basicly top of the line for general testing. The lower the better. If you have detectible levels of PO4 then try using Phosban. It is a phosphate absorber. You don't want PO4 in your tank as it causes nucence algae problems.

Hope that helps you some.

PS:
Normal temp is now around 80*F for most industry professionals. (The range of 77*F to 80*F is a good area to be. +/- 1*F temp swing daily for lights on/off cycle.)

Also, if anyone is keeping clams and other Ca loving critters...your Ca levels will need to be at least 450ppm. It would be better to have it around 500ppm. (480 is a good round number.)

For the life of me, I can't get my Ca that high. pH is 8.2 - 8.4 during the day, Alkalinity I keep around 4 meq/l, but I have never been able to get calcium up over 330, even just a few hours after I've added the supplement.

I'm using this Kent Expert Series Liquid Reactor. Is it just not as good as something else,
like some of the 2-part ones or what?

Mike O'Brien
09-17-2005, 04:51 PM
Liquid reactor is a slurry of calcium carbonate. It takes a low ph to dissolve calcium carbonate in sea water. Using that may actually have a lowering affect on you're levels. That's why they use CO2 in calcium reactor's. I recommend B-ionic two part for calcium and alkalinity.

flyboydave
09-18-2005, 01:25 AM
Ok. It's almost gone, so I'll get some B-ionic. The liquid reactor is good at keeping alkalinity right where I want it @ 4.0 meq/l, and pH stays good as well, but it sure doesn't seem to be doing much for the calcium levels. I'm already getting good coral growth, but the coralline only grows really good in some places, in other places not so much. I'm hoping that if I can get the calcium up where it should be, things should really start thriving.

I've finally gotten everything else where it should be, 0 nitrates, 0 phosphates, and the hair algae problem I had is quickly going away. I think what was happening is that the skimmer was pulling much more out, which caused the algae to die, which then started falling off the rocks and decomposing, which put the phosphates back into the water only to grow more algae. I've been much more diligant at cleaning the algae from the sand and sides with a scraper and then sucking it out with a power filter used only for loose algae removal and then removed.

Thanks for the reply.

iamwhatiam52
09-25-2005, 05:56 AM
Combined iodine tested as undetectable with a Salifert test kit so an LFS sold me Lugols. After dosing three weeks in a row at the recomended one drop per ten gal. per week, there was no change, so I tested for the individual components.

Iodide is .1 which I think is two high. Logols is iodide..... any connection?

Iodate is undetectable.

How can the combined test show less than one of the individual components?

Is there a better test kit and a better way to add iodine if needed?

iamwhatiam52
09-27-2005, 10:46 PM
In reference to the above question as well as in general, is there a particular brand or type of test kit that is better or easier?

Mike O'Brien
09-27-2005, 10:48 PM
Just dont bother dosing at all. You can't accurately test for it with hobby kit's.

iamwhatiam52
09-28-2005, 02:53 AM
I take it you feel there is little danger of iodine levels getting too low.

My next question of course, is what's the next step up from hobby kits.

flyboydave
09-28-2005, 03:06 AM
I take it you feel there is little danger of iodine levels getting too low.

My next question of course, is what's the next step up from hobby kits.

The Salifert Iodine kit claims to be the only test capable of detecting all 3 types and then giving a total concentration reading. But... odds are that your water changes provide all the iodine you'll ever need. You DO perform regular water changes, right?

On a side note, but similar thread, I was at a store in Dallas the other day, Fish Gallery, where they have a very nice coral tank about 12 feet long x 4 feet wide, it's on 2 tiers with bunches of MH bulbs. I ask them what they keep their calcium levels at, and how often they dose, or if they use a calcium generator. She said it stays about 410, but they don't add any calcium at all, or anything else for that matter - instead, they just change water every 2 days.

andyjd
10-16-2005, 07:26 PM
Just did the first test on the holding aka bargain tank.

Tested with not very good test kit that came with the tank.

PH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20

I did a 5 Gallon water change ealier today, need to add some straight RO/DI water to balance that.

burning2nd
06-03-2006, 08:28 AM
Im runing ,
78F
8.1
Ca To low, magnisum also 2 low,!!!
No2 0
No3 .2 or less.
nh4 is 0
1.023,1.024 uselly
phosphate is 0 or undetec
alk 2.5 meq/L

really not that bad, as everyone said it would be made it sound like this was rocket scince.

it just takes a hell of a lot of time and money

flyboydave
06-03-2006, 12:14 PM
Im runing ,
78F
8.1
Ca To low, magnisum also 2 low,!!!
No2 0
No3 .2 or less.
nh4 is 0
1.023,1.024 uselly
phosphate is 0 or undetec
alk 2.5 meq/L

really not that bad, as everyone said it would be made it sound like this was rocket scince.

it just takes a hell of a lot of time and money

Or good equipment. Once you get past the initial equipment purchase, it doesn't take much money, and once you get the routine down, the time factor drops way off, too. But when you're starting from nothing, yes, it can be expensive.

burning2nd
06-03-2006, 02:20 PM
true, now that i got it all down pat, its kinda eazy, nothing like people made it out 2 be

flyboydave
06-03-2006, 04:46 PM
true, now that i got it all down pat, its kinda eazy, nothing like people made it out 2 be

Yeah, like just about everything else, if you don't know how to do something, surely its because it must be difficult. But then once you know how to do it, you wonder what all the fuss was about because its so easy.

But as for your low calc and mag (and alk for that matter), are you supplementing any of them? Since both your alk and calc are low, I'd suggest some b-Ionic from ESV. A daily dose of approximately 1ml per 3 gallons will bring them both right up where you want them.