Is it possible to rid Ich?

[r_jensen11]

I just talked to somebody on the phone that works at a lfs, and he claims that it's impossible to get rid of Ich completely. Is this true? Or is it possible to be completely ich-free? I'd imagine that it would be healthier to be completely ich-free. I ask because I just had a major outbreak, and I would like to know if I have to have Ich treatment onhand every day incase another course decides to take its run. I don't have any live plants yet, so that's not a major concern for me, but all I have left are two mollies and one neon tetra.

[steve1s]

I just talked to somebody on the phone that works at a lfs, and he claims that it's impossible to get rid of Ich completely. Is this true? Or is it possible to be completely ich-free?
Your LFS is wrong. If done correctly fish can be introduced parasite and disease free. When purchasing new fish always buy one at a time unless mated pairs. Never buy "just arrived" animals and always try to put a deposit down and allow the LFS to hold the fish you are interested in. Make sure you go back several times over the week to check it's health, appearance and ensure it is eating prepared foods. If all looks good at the end of a 7 day period, take the fish home and acclimate it to a quarantine holding tank.

The QT should be 10-20 gal consisting of a heater, simple sponge corner filter and possibley a small powerhead. Leave the fish in the QT for at least a period of 4 weeks. Never trust the LFS or any other source to tell you it's already been QT' or treated. They are often wrong or has not been done properly. Over the 4 weeks keep observing the fish's overall health. If there is to be a parasite, bacterial or fungal problem, that will be the time it should show up. The fish can then be treated quite easily if needed without further stress of re-capture or causing further damage by attempting to treat the main tank.

This can work for both FW and SW and if fish currently living in the tank are removed for treatment in a QT, leaving the main tank fallow for a minimum of 4 weeks will ensure the parasite dies naturaly without the need to treat the main tank. FW ich unlike SW, can be affected by temp and can be raised up to 86° to break the reproductive life cycle. The basics of how to treat and prevent these parasite problems are fairly the same for FW ich Ichthyophthirius and SW ich Cryptocaryon irritans, there are just a few variations as far as possible meds/treatments.

Good Luck!
Cheers
Steve