IS THIS ICH??

[Ristaze]

I got this guy 4 days ago, and he seemed to be doing fine. When I came home today he looked like this.

What should I do? I have a 55 with about 45 lbs of live rock.

1 yellow tank
1 domion damsel
1 clown

[Mikeaveli21]

Sorry to say but yup that's ick. Usually when are moved around their stress levels increase resulting in a weaker immune system, hence more susceptible to disease. Do you have a QT (quarantine tank)? Try to get him out of the tank into a QT and you can treat him from there. I will refer you to this thread going on right now as it will hopefully help you out. http://www.reeflounge.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2289.

[on_fire_8]

If this is a fish only tank, and is going to be permately (meaning you never plan to keep inverts or corals) you can treat the tank with coppersafe. IF you ever plan on keeping inverts or corals DO NOT treat the tank with copper, use a quarintine tank.

[Ristaze]

I don't have a quarentine tank. I do plan on having coral and inverts at some point. What should I do? Fresh water bath? If so how should I do it?
Thank,
Michael

[steve1s]

Fresh water dips are usually ineffective against C. irritans. You never know how long the fish has actually been infected. That combined with the amount of stress of being placed in a fresh water environment that will most likely not be the same temperature or PH and could actually kill the fish.

It usually takes up to 2 days before the white spots or trophonts are actually visible and anywhere from 3-5 days before it is released back into the water where it forms a cyst called a tomont. The cyst attach's to any hard surface where it rapidly multiplies. Once released from the cyst now known as a theront, it looks for a new host and the cycle starts again. It is only during the free swimming stage that medications of any kind are effective, but rarely 100% unless using copper.

So while you may be able to affect the current infestation on this fish, you are doing nothing for the parasites that have left the fish to multiply. That is why it is highly recommended to set up a QT and perform either Hyposalinity (http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html), which when done properly is 100% effective and the chances of fish loss are greatly diminished. The other treatment is copper (http://saltaquarium.about.com/library/weekly/aa102797f.htm) which is not always the best, but will work. With copper you will also need to watch for signs of lost appetite.

Setting up the QT is rather easy and inexpensive. A heater, a rubbermaid container and a cheap corner filter with somne borrowed filter media from the main tank. If copper is used the media from the main tank is to be thrown away when done. Use water from the main tank to start the Qt, thereby matching salinity, PH and temp and reducing the stress. Garlic can be added to food additions to keep the appetite stimulated and add vitamin suppliments. QT's don't have to look like a tank, they just need to be functional. Make sure all fish are transfered to the Qt and the main tank remains fishless for 4 weeks.

Cheers
Steve

[Ristaze]

You mean to tell me there is no other way of getting rid of ich in a reef tank other than setting up a quarintine tank? There are no reef safe meds out there?
For me setting up a new tank is not possible. Should I just get rid of the fish?

[steve1s]

While I can't say there is not another cure, there is not one that I can honestly recommend, but for $60.00 you could set up a simple QT.

Filter (http://marinedepot.com/a_fl_power.asp?CartId=)>> $22.69
100w Heater (http://marinedepot.com/a_ht_va.asp?CartId=)>> $14.79
Rubbermaid container>> $25.00 approx
Tank water>> relatively free

As you can see, not very exspensive and can be set up anywhere there is an outlet and only needs to be operational for 4-5 weeks. A permanent QT is prefered, but not absolutely necessary.

Cheers
Steve

[Mikeaveli21]

Ristaze,
Look at the QT tank as an investment. If you want, you get rid of the fish, but then lets say at a later time you have other fish infected with ich, then replacing all those fish will cost much more than any QT tank, plus your keeping one less fish out of the toilet (or "fish heaven"). Either way, its your choice. Good luck :D

[phistio]

For me setting up a new tank is not possible.

why is a Q-tank out of the question? are there space constraints?

[Ristaze]

I don't really have anywhere to put it and plus time constraints. There has to be an easier way! Plus I have to have my tank empty for 4 weeks!

Lets say I buy a ten gallon tank and fill it with the water from my tank.
How often and how much do I have to do water changes?

[phistio]

q-tanks don't have to be setup all the time, they can be broken down after they have served their purpose...

depending on length and coarse of treament has a bearing of water changes. if said fish is quarintined for say 2-4 weeks, no water change may be needed at all.

as far as time constraints, there is relatively no time in setting up, and taking down a q-tank. like said, the water comes from an already established environment, so it's not like you're waiting on a cycle. consider it like doing a water change in your main tank...ten gallons old out, ten gallons new in...

[MindRiot]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned UV sterilizers. I read they have great success ridding a tank of ick as well as any other nuicance critters.

[steve1s]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned UV sterilizers. I read they have great success ridding a tank of ick as well as any other nuicance critters.

When it comes to parasitic diseases, they just simply are not 100% effective at eliminating them. They will in fact greatly reduce certain parasite populations, but they should by no means be considered a cure. UV's should only be considered as an additional booster to an already proven remedy.

Look at it this way. If you use a UV, it will destroy certain amounts of free floating algae and other benificial organisms but not all. The same is true of parasites during their free swimming stage. It only takes one parasite to make it's way to the sustrate and form a cycst, thereby starting the infestation all over again.

UV's can also be a great advantage when conecting two tank and will in almost all cases prevent problems from passing between the two.

Do not rely on them as a cure, only an aid.

Cheers
Steve

[reeferdude]

I have just cured a nasty episode of ich with the use of garlic and vitamin c soaked food, a uv, eco-aqualizer, and kick-ich. I had no adverse reactions from any of the corals or inverts.