VNVixen
02-16-2003, 05:47 PM
I HAVE THE ANSWER!!!!
After months of dealing with an unknown attacker on my reef tank, the answer has developed. Let me fill you in.
I use the same RO water on my reef tank as in my freshwater planted tank, purchased from a local water store called Water n’ Ice. In my fresh water tanks, I have been attempting to lower my pH to 6 in order to house Discus fish and plants. The way I achieve this is by draining the RO water over a bail of peat moss into a big Rubbermaid tub. Consequently, I have been having a problem with this. See, filtered RO ran over peat moss should take your pH down to 6 or lower. My pH would only go down to 6.8. In addition to this, my GH was saying at around 15 degrees, when I need it to be around 2. So I posted the question on “The Planted Tank”. I received these replies.
“The whole point of RO is to remove all minerals. This would take the KH and GH to near zero if running properly. Something is wrong with your RO unit.
jtm”
“I bought my R.O. unit from "water n ice" and my water out of the unit checks kh 2, gh 2. I would tell them where you buy it exactly what your problem is. I bet they are unaware of it.
ridns
”
DING DING DING!!!!
So sure enough, I tested my RO water straight and it is CRAP!!!! The pH is 9!!!!! The KH is 5, the GH is 20!!!!! The RO water is not really RO water. (I am so going to sue!!!!) In short, my TAP WATER is better than what my poor tanks have been using. I have lost a $70 Discus and a whole reef set up!!! I am REALLY mad!!!
My conclusion is this. Because I pre prep all my water a week to a month in advance, the water parameters had time to adjust by the time I would test it before it went into the tank. My tank parameters have been fine, as well as the prepped water, BUT, who knows what things are in this unfiltered water I have been using. My ALK has always been high at about 3.6 to 4, but that is as high as my test kit goes. Even though I have had my water tested at 2 different lfs, who really knows what the ALK is at prior to adequate time for buffering.
The newbie moral of the story is:
When you go to the gas station, test the gas and make sure it is actually 87 octanes before you put it in your car and blow your engine. AND SUE THAT GAS STATION AFTER THE EXPLOSION!!!!!
Thank you everyone for your help. I have learned a valuable and expensive lesson.
After months of dealing with an unknown attacker on my reef tank, the answer has developed. Let me fill you in.
I use the same RO water on my reef tank as in my freshwater planted tank, purchased from a local water store called Water n’ Ice. In my fresh water tanks, I have been attempting to lower my pH to 6 in order to house Discus fish and plants. The way I achieve this is by draining the RO water over a bail of peat moss into a big Rubbermaid tub. Consequently, I have been having a problem with this. See, filtered RO ran over peat moss should take your pH down to 6 or lower. My pH would only go down to 6.8. In addition to this, my GH was saying at around 15 degrees, when I need it to be around 2. So I posted the question on “The Planted Tank”. I received these replies.
“The whole point of RO is to remove all minerals. This would take the KH and GH to near zero if running properly. Something is wrong with your RO unit.
jtm”
“I bought my R.O. unit from "water n ice" and my water out of the unit checks kh 2, gh 2. I would tell them where you buy it exactly what your problem is. I bet they are unaware of it.
ridns
”
DING DING DING!!!!
So sure enough, I tested my RO water straight and it is CRAP!!!! The pH is 9!!!!! The KH is 5, the GH is 20!!!!! The RO water is not really RO water. (I am so going to sue!!!!) In short, my TAP WATER is better than what my poor tanks have been using. I have lost a $70 Discus and a whole reef set up!!! I am REALLY mad!!!
My conclusion is this. Because I pre prep all my water a week to a month in advance, the water parameters had time to adjust by the time I would test it before it went into the tank. My tank parameters have been fine, as well as the prepped water, BUT, who knows what things are in this unfiltered water I have been using. My ALK has always been high at about 3.6 to 4, but that is as high as my test kit goes. Even though I have had my water tested at 2 different lfs, who really knows what the ALK is at prior to adequate time for buffering.
The newbie moral of the story is:
When you go to the gas station, test the gas and make sure it is actually 87 octanes before you put it in your car and blow your engine. AND SUE THAT GAS STATION AFTER THE EXPLOSION!!!!!
Thank you everyone for your help. I have learned a valuable and expensive lesson.